Everest Region Hike Day 1

The landing in Lukla is like no other. There is no margin for error.

The single runway clings to a promontory jutting from the town. The runway begins at the top of a cliff, ascends at a 12 degree angle (to help planes slow down) and ends 400 meters later at a rock wall.

Lukla Airfield

Our fully loaded (19 people and baggage) Twin Otter touched down and immediately the flaps went fully up and the engines reversed with a roar. Just meters from the end, the plane does at hard right into the arrival/departure area. Our plane reloads and roars down the runway, leaving the ground 20 meters before the end.

After lunch, our small group begins hiking to our destination 4 hours away. The trail is very reminiscent of the Inca Trail in Peru. There are steps of varying height with more or less flatish rocks, a mosaic of of shaped cobbles, and patches of rocky dirt. 

Typical trail in lower area

The trail is the single ribbon of commerce as we hike up the Dudh Kosi (Milk River) valley. Everything from beer to construction material goes up this trail. Goods are carried by men, mules, ponies, and most often cattle-yak cross the locals call jukiyos. All draught animals have bells. As they shuffle long, they sound like a discordant percussion group.

Trekkers outnumber the other trail users. While not crowded by people, it is rare you see it empty ahead of you. Tourism seems to be causing a building boom. There are many new buildings, usually made of hand-quarried and hand-shaped stone, with wooden poles embedded in the walls for floor supports.

The river and its many tributaries are spanned with metal bridges, including suspensions for the longer crossings.

In many places the trail goes past rocks carved with prayers (Hindu), such as below.

The first night we spend in a lodge in Phakding. We have actually dropped 200 meters to 2650.

Electricity (enough for lights) comes from a series of small hydro generators tapping the power of the tributaries. Cooking relies on wood and propane. Heating is limited to a wood stove in one common eating room, not bedrooms. A good sleeping bag is needed.