Everest Region Hike Day 7

Today we began the hike back to Lukla and the airport. In 3.5 hours of walking we covered the same ground in reverse as day 2 and 3 together, going from Namche to Phakding.

We left Namche at 9 AM and reached the white waters of Dohd Kosi in an hour. We crossed the first of five suspension bridges we had to traverse that day. The air at river level is thicker and warmer.

Trains of mules and jokiyos also use the bridges. They have absolute right of way. On bridges, you can squeeze by mules but not the wider jokiyos. You have to back up.

On trails, you step aside when they approach. And if you get behind them on a narrow trail, you eat their dust.

Most of the trail is down with a few short ascents. While going down is easier on the lungs, it his harder on the old knees.

The river is never out of view as you hike the canyon forests. The roar is always with you. The untamed and undammed river offers miles and miles of superb whitewater, but nary a kayaker was in sight.

View of the river through pines and rhododendron trees

My nose became so aggravated by dust the previous days—constant runny nose—that I bought a buff (a thin fabric neck tube) as I'd seen many others wear. You pull it over your nose bandit-style. It helped. My shocked sinuses are recovering.